The 21

I love taking the bus here. I grew up taking the city bus in Ames and appreciate the beauty of a well-planned public transportation system. I enjoy my rides to work, or into Jerusalem on the bus I frequent the most-the 21.

One of my favorite bus rides was right after the big snowstorm that hit the region in December. No one was quite sure if the buses would be running because of the snow and ice, but Jeff, Julie and I headed down to the bus stop to see. Unfortunately when we arrived, there were no buses but as we have been embracing the Palestinian culture, we stood around and waited for a while. If there were no buses running, we were not going to be able to make it to church anyway. But if a bus came, we would be fashionably late for church. It was a win-win situation and we were enjoying the sun and beautiful scene before us. Lo and behold a bus was making its way down the road towards us and was willing to take us into the Old City for church. Along the way into the the Old City, we were met with clapping and cheers by Palestinians because the bus was running. The whole bus was one big party and by far one of the most joyful rides I have ever encountered as people celebrated the arrival of a bus through uncleared snow.

I greatly admire the skills of the bus drivers. Imagine trying to drive a full-size bus through an old city designed for carts and cars, not buses. Don't think a bus can turn around in a parking lot smaller than a living room? You, my friend, are wrong (ok yes, a slight exaggeration, but you get my point). These drivers are skilled and I am constantly amazed by how they can actually maneuver in these routes.

One bus driver's decorations in his bus. 

The Palestinian bus system, as I understand it, is a co-op. The bus drivers own their buses and take pride in them. Each decorates his own in a unique way-some are covered in Palestinian keffiyehs and flags, some are decked out in Real Madrid or Barcelona football club wares. But my favorite bus driver's decorations are simple: a purple butterfly and a print of Handala. I love this bus driver. His bus is always clean, the clock is actually correct (which shows me how much he cares about how he drives and his pride in his bus) and he is kind. I remember riding the bus into Jerusalem and he took the time to call a young woman up to the front of the bus and started pointing out where things were and gave her directions before she got off the bus.

The bus is a place to meet new people. I have been fed cashews and have received a wedding invitation on the bus. I have entertained children as we wait for the bus to crawl forward in a traffic jam. I have made friends at the bus stop. I get to ride with a coworker every morning and enjoy his company before the start of the day. I can also just plug in my headphones and relax to some music as I head into Jerusalem.

Part of this journey into Jerusalem requires crossing through a checkpoint. The buses pull off to the side into a special section where all of my Palestinian brothers and sisters are required to get off. Although as an international, I may be allowed to stay on the bus, I would rather step off and wait outside in the elements with these men and women. The bus drives forward and is boarded by two Israeli security guards (they may be soldiers or private security forces). The papers of the people still on the bus (often internationals or the elderly) are checked and the bus inspected. The soldiers get off and then check the papers of the people waiting outside one at a time. Most of the time I am waved through without a second glance at the blue passport in my hands. On occasion, my visa is checked and rarely I am asked questions. The checkpoint is more of a hassle for everyone involved, but I do not think the guns make anyone feel comfortable. It is just another part of daily life on the bus.

The bus system also demonstrates a pseudo-apartheid. To my knowledge, there are no laws stipulating that Arab Israelis and Palestinians ride the Arab buses and Jewish Israelis and settlers ride the Egged (a Jewish Israeli company) buses, but that is the reality which is occurring on the ground. Both people and buses share the same bus stops, but each will wait for their own bus. Just like the political situation here, the land is shared, but each wishes to live independently of the other. I have only ridden a variety of Arab buses so far, but in the future, I will most likely find myself on Jewish buses, which will be a whole new experience I am sure.

The bus is a little cocoon for me. I find comfort in the familiar faces of the bus drivers and the very basic route of the 21. It lets me take a deep breath and relax for a moment as I reach a new destination. I love the bus.